After the sun sinks below the
mountains, I turn on my headlamp. Sparse
moonlight filters through the umbrage of trees and casts a greyness over the campsite. I am writing in my journal when I hear the pitter-patter of tiny feet. A shadow bounces behind me on the shelter
wall. I turn around and there is a mouse
staring at me with black eyes. He
approaches me, but when I pretend to charge, he scurries away.
Without the heat of the sun, the
temperature drops significantly. I am shivering in my leggings and fleece. I return to my writing as Cavin and Brian enter
the camp. (I would not learn their names
until the next day.) Cavin is slender
and wears a thick red jacket. Brian is stocky
and is clad in shorts and a thermal long-sleeved shirt. They are celebrating their birthdays and
getting their feet wet for an eventual thru-hike. All they have to do is save up the money. Brian tells me his strategy. I can tell by his tone that he likes being in
charge but he also possesses a genuine fondness for his friend.
While Brian hangs the food bags and
filters water, Cavin collects an ample supply of twigs and branches. He sets the kindling ablaze by sparking dryer
lint. Cavin and I sit on separate logs
as we huddle around the flames. The
radiant warmth of the fire provides a tremendous comfort to my body and an even
bigger psychological boost. At this
point I do not even know this man’s name, but we form an immediate connection
based on an instinctual need for protection and comfort.
“How far are you hiking?” Cavin
asks.
“As far as I need to,” I say.
The northern terminus of the trail
lies at the summit of Mount Katahdin in Maine.
Although Maine has always been my goal since I first discovered the
trail, I don’t want to mention Maine in the beginning. I don’t want to become fixated on the
destination, but this is easier said than done.
Already I feel the urge to rush forward to get this over with and reach
the next stage of my life.
“What made you want to hike the
trail?” he asks.
“I want to simplify my life,” I say. “But I also want to appreciate what I have at
home. I’m not out here to shun modern
technology because I love my cell phone and Netflix and cars that can drive
faster than I can walk.”
He also agrees that refrigerators
are a better option than carrying your food and that basically modern man
cannot easily regress to caveman standards.
I ask him his own question. He works at Wells Fargo, but his job isn’t quite
as exhilarating as the time he spent living on the north shore of Oahu. He wants to reclaim that sense of excitement.
“Exploration and adventure is what
life is all about,” he says.
Brian returns from his nightly
chores and quickly steals the spotlight.
I welcome his loquaciousness, for I am eager to discover what brings
hikers like Cavin and Brian to collide with me.
Brian is a former military veteran who was deployed in Iraq. He never planned on driving a truck, but he
was assigned this role to replace drivers who were killed by IEDs. I ask him if he was afraid to take the
job.
“Of course,” he says. “Every single day I knew I could die any
minute.”
He then recounts a story that
illustrates his proximity to death. A
senior officer had asked him to drive out to an Iraqi’s house, but he was not
briefed on the nature of the mission. Nonetheless,
he followed his orders and drove the officer to the location, where he was told
to wait in the car. He waited, not
knowing how long this would take. Ten
minutes pass. A half an hour. Forty five minutes. Brian starts worrying that something is wrong. He’s afraid to go inside, but staying in the
car isn’t much of a comfort either.
He decides to enter the Iraqi’s
house, and the host offers him a cup of tea.
He had been raised to be respectful to his elders, so he accepted their
hospitality. Nothing sketchy seemed to
be going on; everyone was just talking. Brian
sips the tea. The officer tells him it’s
time to go, and they drive to the base.
After returning safely, Brian
starts to feel queasy, so he lies down to sleep off the pain but can’t. He becomes violently ill and reports to
medical, who tell him they are too busy to help him. There is nothing he can do but be sick and
wait for the pain to pass. Brian
suspects the cup of tea is the root of the problem. He thinks he was poisoned.
Back in the Georgia woods, I listen
to Brian’s story intently. I am
fascinated by war stories, but I am reluctant to ask him questions in fear I
may bring up the wrong memory. Instead, I
tell him that hiking the trail will be a cakewalk compared to what he endured
in Iraq.
We sit in silence for a while as
the fire flickers weakly. The stars
sprinkle the night sky like pixie dust. I
bid my new friends good night and climb up to the loft. In my very own private suite, I wiggle into
my sleeping bag and drift off to sleep thinking I could be resting in worse
places.
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